Tuesday 24 August 2010
So we started this penultimate stage with a spring in our step and a bright sky. There is a choice of river banks for this section but we chose the south bank as it seemed to follow the river more closely. Putney High Street was noisy and busy as we stepped down on to the relative calm of the Thames path.
This stretch of the river from Putney to Battersea has seen the most amazing quantity of development, mostly residential over the last 10 years and so the riverside walk is generally paved and generously wide.
There are also some lovely green areas, which seemed very peaceful until we were overtaken by a marauding group of young jogging mums, complete with cross country pushchairs and children. Luckily a mounted policeman rode through to keep them in check.
It was interesting to find traces of old London in places, such as the outfall of the River Wandle, which is one of the largest watercourses which run into the Thames in London. Sadly though, it created an air of neglect between the gleaming new tower blocks of apartments.
These 2 views demonstrate the extent of development, but it was good to see that they had incorporated a tidal nature reserve as part of the landscaping.
There are still many old boats and barges moored along the banks reminding us that this used to be a working river. To an extent it still is, as there a few waste transfer stations which transport London's refuse down to the estuary on huge, blunt barges, which are chained together and towed by busy little tugs.
There is one modern architectural point of interest along this stretch after passing the heliport, which is a residential block designed by Sir Norman Foster. It seems me to take some design reference from Gaudi's Barcelona, but one thing is sure - the duplex penthouses looked amazing.
Across the river we saw the entrance to the Grand Union canal with its huge locks and Chelsea Harbour marina and the disused Lots Road power station. The ornate Albert Bridge signaled that we were entering Battersea park. Albert bridge sports a sign ordering all troops to break step when they cross. Needless to say we couldn't wait to see if soldiers were crossing today!
I hadn't realised how big and grand Battersea Park is. We paused a while at the Peace Pagoda to shelter from a nasty rainstorm which blew up out of nowhere and whistled towards the City.
The forlorn hulk of Battersea power station forced us to cross the river at Chelsea Bridge as there is currently no riverside path across the site. It is sad that this iconic building has seen off at least 3 well intentioned developers and may be destined never to become a thriving destination. I hope it does at some time.
We had a modest lunch at the Grosvenor, before crossing back to the south bank over Vauxhall Bridge.
So finally we reached my most hated building in London, the Vauxhall Cross residential scheme. I'm sure it has made pots of money for the developer and possibly for the architect too, but it really is a terrible blot on the river.
But having ranted and railed at the ugliness of that building as we crossed the river, the sun broke through the clouds and our spirits lifted as we finally saw the architypel view of London known around the planet.....the Houses of Parliament. Designed by Charles Barry in 1835 it has become a symbol for the nation. This is what I had walked over 170 miles to see!
It was getting rather busy as we passed the London Eye - a far cry from the lonely wet and windy field at the source. Anyway it was time for afternoon tea and we rested for a while on the terrace of the Festival Hall looking slightly out of place in our walking gear amongst the hordes of tourists.
The South Bank is now a thriving entertainment area, but is also a great vantage point to view the many famous buildings on the north bank and to appreciate what a grand vista the Thames provides.
The Millenium bridge still makes me marvel at how slender it is. It has opened up a wonderful view of St Pauls and engineered a new connection to the Tate Modern and the Globe Theatre.
One final new building before we reached our destination, The GLA building. I like it but as you can see Steve wasn't so sure.
Finally journey's end for the day, Tower Bridge. 174 miles completed. The bridge looked magnificent in the late afternoon sunshine. We carried on to a wine bar and met up with a few friends plus my elder son Simon for drinks. Steve left early to get home (lightweight!) Whilst I later regretted staying late as I didn't get home till about 11pm. What a long day.
So the next section will be the end of our quest. The path ends at the Thames Barrier. More next time.
